8 September 2010-New chains on, and we are rocking. Didn't get out of Kalgoorlie till 1100. Got to Merreden at 1600. It is only three more hours to Perth, but the critters come out in about two, and my best description of a kangaroo would be "a dumb deer." So we stopped for the night. Came back from dinner in the motel restaurant to find my MC cover off, and half of the windscreen snapped off. And this is a small country town! Back to reality. Just very glad it didn't happen before now. So surgery tomorrow with duct tape. I refuse to let it get me down. Everything else has been too marvelous. Sue talked with Reg, her Dad, and he and Shirley have invited us for soup at noon, so that is where we will be, one last stop before ending in Bruce and Di's garage, the start point.

One thing I have been meaning to mention but keep forgetting to is the incredible number and variety of birdlife - birds as small as your thumb, and as large as a woman standing; water birds with long skinny legs, land birds, carrion eating birds, seed eaters, eagles, crows, flocks of pink and grey galahs, flocks of white silver crested cockatoos, parakeets, emus, magpies, kookaburras, willy-wagtails - and on seemingly ad finatum. And it seems they all love to sing, so the air is filled with music more than it is quiet. In the states Sue tunes in the Australian Open, not to watch the tennis, but just to hear the birds. I understand "why" a lot more now.

7 September 2010-Several days postings today, as I had no IN access on the Nullarbor.

7 September 2010-Change of plan. The better part of valor was to head to Kalgoorlie, the place with the nearest Suzuki MC shop, and get new chains. The Man upstairs and I made a deal - we get to Kal without throwing a chain and ripping open our crankcase, and we would fork out the extra for another day's stay and two new chains. Ray Moore, the owner of the bike shop says it was the torrential rain out of Ceduna that destroyed the integrity of the chains and allowed them to stretch as much as they did as rapidly as they did. He helped us get fixed up with lodging, and a vehicle, and promises to be working on the bikes first things in the morning. Hope to get a good way down the road toward Perth tomorrow afternoon, and home by Thursday. Sue says she needs a perm. Kal is a mining town, and still has the feel of a Wild West kind of place. My kind of town. They have the worlds largest open pit gold mine here. Hope to get out to get a picture before the rain comes, as it apparently has of a mind to again. September showers bring October flowers....

6 September 2010-527 km to Balladonia. A good day to cross the rest of the Nullarbor – blue sky, lots of low cumulous clouds, fair amount of sun., not much traffic. Just before Balladonia we encountered many MCs heading east, reportedly on the way to Alice. One very worrisome thing – the chains on both bikes were very loose. Sprockets looked okay. Tightened the chains by moving the rear wheels back, Sue’s as far as possible, mine almost all the way. Each time we have stopped for service we have enquired about replacing the chains, and each time we were told they were okay for us to make it home. Hope that is correct. Back to Western Time, so we added another 45 minutes. It is nice to sit in front of the motel room in the sun. Still no G3 access. The Nullarbor is indeed an empty place.

5 September 2010-The wind had calmed to its usual state, only traces of rain were predicted, there was a modicum of sun, so it was a very good day to start across the Nullarbor. We stopped for breakfast (bacon, eggs, and toast), as is our custom, after about two hours of riding, and while there met Howard, from New South Wales, riding a Honda Shadow, on his way to Perth. He is a semi-retired cabbie who has been riding for 18 months. This is his first long trip. He asked if he could tag along with us, and we were glad for the company. The Plain is an amazingly empty place. We have been through lots of isolated places, but this one takes the cake for emptiness. For a good part of the first 500 km the road is very close to the top of the limestone cliffs that make up the Great Australian Bight. Good picture opportunity. We stopped at Border Village, immediately east of the West Australian border, and set our clocks back 45 minutes to WA/SA Border Time. There is village, just petrol station, restaurant, motel complex, but there is a very nice non-denominational chapel set up in one of the rooms. No G3 internet access – the only place on our whole trip where that has been the case.

4 September 2010-A planned rest day, and a good choice that. There is an actual gale blowing outside. We took a long walk downtown, and the trees waved their mighty hellos as they came back up from being bent nearly half way over. Found the church, but no mass there this weekend.

3 September 2010-We swam to Ceduna today. Heavy rain and thunderstorms had been forecast for the NE. Since we were heading SW we figured we would be okay, and could tolerate the smaller amount of rain forecast for our route. We left at 0745 and at 0749 it started to spit a bit. After an hour we had one 15 minute heavy downpour, but then broke into clear skies with sunshine, and only some high grey clouds to the SW. Then lightening in the NE, No worries, right? Then it started in the SW. Then it started just in front of us. And behind us. And then someone opened the spigot. One could barely see the road, much less what may have been coming down it, except for sheets of water. We were lucky enough to be able to pull off the road into the small town of Kimba. We went into the coffee shop. Sue asked to use the toilet, and they told her, “Sorry, it has been flooded out!” The rain had apparently been as heavy there for the preceding six hours. Again, luckily, the public out toilets were just next door and a dash through the maelstrom. After an hour the roar of the downfall lessened to a light sprinkle, and we decided to try it again. This time we really lucked out, for the rest of the day was spent without rain, and riding through beautiful thousands of acres of farmland, beautifully green with young grain, and dotted ever so often with a few hundred sheep. Our motel had sheltered covering for the MCs, and it is good that it did because the rain returned with a vengeance during the night.

2 September 2010-A short riding day today, only 284 km, to Port Augusta at the top of Spencer Gulf. Tomorrow we turn west to Perth, unfortunately through a forecast day of rain, but fortunately not nearly as heavy as originally predicted (we hope!) Today we were walking to breakfast and saw a lovely lady in a short pink jacket. Sue said, “That looks like Lyn, but they are in Coober Pedy.” Wrong! Colin didn’t like Coober Pedy so they pressed on, and wound up at Glendamo also. Just right for a pre-breakfast visit. My personal opinion is that Colin had ordered a beautiful two-toned Triumph classic rebuild, only 250 of which were to be built, and only 25 delivered to Oz, it has arrived, and they will keep “pressing on” until he gets home to ride it. A man after my own heart!

1 Sept 2010-Another lovely day, 500 km south to Glendambo. 15C(59F) to start, up to 28C(82F,) back to 22C(70F) to end the day. Blue sky went to high overcast. I think we are back in the chilly, and in for some more wet stuff. Met a nice couple from South Africa on a BMW R1200GS who are just starting their circumnavigation, well-kitted out for camping, but they left their rain gear at home. Hope they don't get too wet. Half a day south tomorrow, then the final turn right for home.

31 August 2010-Today was another especially excellent day on the road - good highway, 12-22C, blue sky, wind tolerable. We went east for 250 km back to the Stuart Highway at Erldunda were we petroled up, ate breakfast, and headed south. We had debated about stopping at Kulgera, the last possible stop in the Northern Territory, because it was only 74 km down the road, but decided to do so because there really was no other roadhouse for the next 180 km after, until we were to stop for the night. While at Kulger we debated the benefits of ice cream but decided it was too close to breakfast, so just took off a layer, remounted, and prepared to take off. As Sue backed out, her way was blocked by a caravan, and a woman jumped out, ran up to her, and shouted, "Sue!" It was Lyn Parish, and the blocking driver was her husband Colin! They are the ones who fixed the electrical problem with my bike 5 weeks ago on the way to Queensland. We had all been trying to arrange a meeting for the last three weeks, via e-mail and telephone, and even our quick trip to Alice Springs last Saturday, but for some reason or the other one of the couples couldn't make it to a prearranged spot. Needless to say we were overjoyed to see them again. We all had a grand gab fest at the roadhouse. They introduced us to Colin's brother Roger, and his wife Dale. It turns out that we were all scheduled to spend the night at Marla, South Australia. Hurrah! So we got together here for dinner, where Colin barbied delicious steak, lamb chops, and snaggers (sausages), and the ladies made scrumptious, tasty salads, and dessert was large chunks of my favorite Ozzie candy - Violet Crumbles - with good coffee. Great fun telling stories and laughing frequently and uproariously went on for hours until our guilty consciences made us stop so the two girls in sleeping bags camped just behind us could get some sleep. See what I mean? It has been a fantastic trip. How else could we have met, and then re-met these wonderfully nice people?

30 August 2010-We spent all day at Uluru - sunrise pictures, walked on a couple of the walks with a Natalie, very good story telling tour guide, had an ice cream, back to the rock for sunset pictures. Now only have to go through the 424 photos and see if any of them are any good. On the road south tomorrow, for three days, then right turn to Perth.

29 August 2010-Today was a very nice day – good road, clear sky, not much wind, 18-20 C, and we ended up at Yulara - Ayers Rock Resort. It has only taken us 24 years to make it here (too long a story to relate) but suffice it to say we are both delighted that we arrived together. And it was definitely worth the effort. The Rock is a beaut. An amazing beaut. We also took a 100 km ride in the park west to the Olgas, a massive rock formation, and marveled even more. Tomorrow it is up at 0:dark30 to get sunrise pictures of “The Rock.” So goodnight.

28 August 2010- My brother emailed me today to tell me that Mother had died in her sleep last evening. Emma Christina Wiedower Howell Hayes (Emma Jo, Gram) was 96. She was born in Haiteville, Arkansas in 1914 to John and Minny Wiedower. Her grandfather, Herman Wiedower, had emigrated from Germany to the Midwest USA when he was six, and eventually moved to Arkansas where he farmed. Her father, John, is still remembered as a successful farmer, but mostly as a kind and generous and god-fearing man. She was the eldest of 10 children, two of whom died in infancy. When she was 14 her family moved to Vinita, Oklahoma, 200 miles away, and she drove her grandfather the entire way in a model A Ford. In those days the roads were dirt, and the highways only two strips on concrete side by side, each just wide enough for a car wheel. She attended school at Sacred Heart Academy in Vinita, Oklahoma, riding her horse the six miles in to school every day, except for the winter months when she boarded over. She was offered a basketball scholarship to Dallas University, but chose to go to work in Little Rock, Arkansas. After three years she married Harold Albert Howell, of Vinita in the late 30’s. I, first, and then my brother, Bill, came along over a four year period during World War II. Mother was the proverbial joiner/organizer whether it be Cub Scouts, PTA, Women of the Moose, or some money collecting charity. The common saying of my school friends, even through high school was, “I just love your mother.” She loved a party, and could dance your legs off. She was a fastidious dresser, who always prided herself on looking as if she had just stepped out of the pages of a fashion magazine. She encouraged sports, friendship, studies, and for years was a frequent, if not daily attendee at daily Catholic mass. She worked as a book-keeper to help me pay for medical school, and Bill for law school. She loved her 5 grandchildren and 3 great-grandchildren. Although her marriage to Harold ended in 1968 she never ceased to love him. She did marry Jose Hayes years later, but wound up leaving him because, “He didn’t know how to treat me with respect.” She moved to The Dalles, Oregon to be near Bill and I, and was independent and happy there for many years. Over the past five years she suffered a gradual deterioration in her mental stability as Alzheimers attacked her with a vengeance. She learned to be happy with what she could do, and remember, and resolved to just not worry about the rest. The last year has seen her become more and more confused, sad, and upset, especially over the past three months in which she could not recognize family members, and always looked very unhappy. She died in her sleep last evening. Bill said that when he saw her after her death she looked absolutely peaceful. She has gone to meet her God, and I am sure he welcomed her with open and loving arms, saying, “Well done, good and faithful servant.” As she herself said, “I tried to do the best I knew how.” And I am sure that is just what He was looking for. Love you, Mother. Rest happy in your new home.

27 August 2010-Okay, this will cover two days. By the time I got yesterday sorted out it was late, and since I had been sitting outside for a good broadband connection, I was too cold to work. Don’t you feel sorry for me…
Yesterday, 26 August, we left Port Augusta after Sue was almost 100% recovered from her viral sinusitis. It was a bit chilly, 12 C (53 F) and rainy off and on. The road was a good one. My partner asked, “Why are we going so slow?” “We Are at our usual 100 km/hr (63 mph), I replied. “Well speed it up!” she said. “This is a good road, and it is just going straight.” So it was up to the speed limit of 110 km/h (69 mph). We made good time, as there is only the road, and the only thing you have to stop for is petrol – and sheep, and cows, and wedge-tail eagles, and emus – haven’t seen any camels yet, although there are estimates of 30,000 of them roaming around. We rode through the Stoney Desert, one of the vast, and continuous series of deserts thru the north and west of South Australia. It is magnificent! Vast, rolling, arid plains alternate with low scrub brush, and occasional pockets of dense small trees. And every now and then you come across a huge dry lake bed. What is most unusual now is that many of these lakes now have water in them, a very rare sight to see. We couldn’t spend much time appreciating the hydrology, as the wind was atrocious! And amazing. When it was just a front left quartering wind it was just battering us around. But our course altered and we were then facing it head on. What a party. When we went through a gully it would press us down onto the seats. When we came out, it would literally lift the helmets up on our heads, and us a bit off the seats. Never enough to worry one, but definitely attention getting.
We made it to Coober Pedy, after 537 kms (336 miles). There is an algebraic equations that goes Coober Pedy/opals=shopping. So what is a girl to do? We went shopping. Even before showering!
While at dinner – lamb gyros and lemonade – we overheard many people talking about the BIG truck gathering in Alice Springs this weekend, and how it was absolutely impossible to get a motel room. I thought, rather smugly, “How glad I am that I got online and got one a couple of days ago, on-line, through hotels.com.” Then the talk ran to how all the motels/hotels/caravan parks in Alice had been booked up for five months! Not so smug now I decided to call the motel to confirm our reservation. And they had never heard of me, had no record of my reservation, never booked through hotels.com, and had indeed been booked up for this weekend since five months ago, as had every motel in the town! Not good!!!
Our plan had been to ride to Alice and visit with Colin and Lyn, the two who came to our rescue in mid-July when I had the electrical problem with my MC. It would have been a 693 km (433 miles) ride. A long ride, but doable, for as I mentioned the road is good, there is very little to slow you down, and what you set the speedo on is what you get for an average velocity. But then to arrive after all day in the saddle, and to find there was no room in the inn – indeed no room in any inn would not have been good. Sue is absolutely the nicest person I have ever know. But by calling I am sure I averted a major geologic implosion in the Red Center of Australia.
So we were lucky enough to get a room at Erldunda, 200 kms south of Alice, at the turnoff to Uluru, where we are headed next. It made for a much shorter ride today, and perhaps we can get into Alice and back tomorrow, and still see our friends. We are about out of chain lube, so must get some soon, and the MC shop there is open until 12:30. Always wanted to go to Alice….
Today, 27 August started of auspiciously. Came out of the underground motel room, looked at the sky, and announced to Sue, “Well, it is overcast, but I don’t think we will need the rain suits.” Turned back around, and noted that it was raining. And it did so, off and on, all day. Then when we rode out I turned right out of the parking lot to get to the Stuart Highway. After about five blocks the street ended in the desert, so I made a U-turn to go the correct way. But after that it was a glorious day of riding. No wind! And even a bit of sun! We were toasty warm, and completely dry, and had good chats with Aussies when we stopped for breakfast, and then for ice cream. I have long noted that Sue never seemed to meet a stranger. Now I see it is a national characteristic.
The desert continued beside us, thrilling in its stark majesty. On..and on…and on….and on….. I do fell blessed to have been here. Especially with my best mate. It is always good to see the broad smile on her face every time she pulls her helmet off.

25 August 2010-For the past three days we have essentially been holed up at Port Augusta waiting for Sweet Sue to recover from a bad cold/sinusitis. She reports that she is well, and looks as if she is. So it is back on the road tomorrow, to Coober Pedy, then a couple of days at Alice Springs, and two more at Uluru (Ayers Rock) before heading back here to take the final right turn across the Nullarbor Plain to Perth. Still windy, and spitting rain throughout the day, but a bit warmer. We will take the warmth as it comes, even a bit at a time. Fruit trees are budding, and the occasional batch of wild flowers show themselves beside the road. Spring can't be far behind.

20 August 2010-Up today to a bright, sunny, windless day with a temperature of 4.3C (40F) and hit the road well-rugged up. 438 Kms to Adelaide, mostly through fine conditions, but interspersed with occasional short bursts of rain, including one little 45-50 second microburst with horizontal rain, hail, and wind blasts sufficient to reposition the tank bag to the side of the motorbike...twice. My companion thought it all hilarious - the rugging up, the hot tea every two hours, and the Adelaide traffic, not to mention the periodic ending of the South Australia drought. Really. I found it challenging - she found it funny! We are staying with Sue's Auntie Joy, who is a lovely and delightful lady, and tomorrow will catch up with Auntie Winn, and with cousins Sue hasn't seen for decades. We will be here three days, and I doubt if there will be much to report on. Clothes washing will probably not find much fascination for many, so will turn the microphone off till Monday.

18 August 2010-Today was the best day of the trip. The bikes were ready at 9:00 with new oil and sparkplugs, so after a good breakfast of poached eggs, bacon, and toast (Australian bacon is a combination of what Yanks call Canadian bacon, and American bacon, and seemingly is about 95 fat free – and delicious!) we saddled up and headed out. It was 10 C (50 F) but we were rugged up and warm. We went about 100 Km’s west on the Princes Highway toward Melbourne, then headed north in rain 65 Km’s through beautiful old growth forest of large and tall trees to the town of Healesville. We dropped off our gear there and went a few Km’s west to Tarrawarra Abbey, a Cistercian (Trappist) Monastery. I volunteer at the Trappist monastery outside Lafayette, Oregon, and had been deputized by the Abbot Peter and monks there to relay their greetings to Tarrawarra if we were able to visit. We did, and what a wonderful time we had! We were warmly and generously greeted by two very kind and most fascinating Australian men, Abbot David, and the Guestmaster, Fr. Bernard. First they offered us tea, coffee, and biscuits, and we then spent the next several hours in a discussion of everything Australian, as it related to the world, the Church, history, politics, suggested readings, and mutual friends, interrupted quite frequently by gales of laughter that must have shaken the walls. The Rule of St. Benedict, which the Cistercians follow, indicates that they are to treat all visitors as if the visitor was Christ Himself. I can assure you, He would not have been better received, and treated more royally. Sue was delighted to have spent the afternoon talking with two AUSTRALIAN men. As we left Abbot David admonished me to give him high Marks to Abbot Peter – I don’t believe higher marks would have been possible! Although I couldn’t change Abbot David’s mind about George W., I think I convinced him to visit Oregon if he has the chance. What a wonderful day! The only disappointment was that we were not able to stay at the Abbey for Vespers and an evening Mass since they started at dusk, and that is the time kangaroos are noted to be up and hopping onto the roads. Hopefully, next time….

17 August 2010-A glorious day of good riding - cold, but good - 8.3C (47F) to start 15C (59F) to stop. We are heading west! Actually, we have already completed the coastal circumnavigation. In 2007 we rode the southern coast across the continent to Eden, NSW, where we spent the night last evening, as well as circling around Tasmania. So we are done! The only problem is that we are still a few thousand Kms from home, and we haven't quite made it Uluru (Ayers Rock) yet. The bikes were serviced this afternoon in the small town of Hayville, which is essentially any-where-but-where-Melbourne-traffic-is. We are staying at the Hayville Commercial Hotel/Faulty Towers. It is the only hotel/pub/restaurant in town - nice big room, no heat, one light bulb hanging from the middle of the ceiling, one power point, toilet and shower down the hall. Had to move from the first room because after we got the blinds to roll up we discovered the window had a big hole in it. But the apple crumble was to die for. All the country pubs have to have basic rooms to rent in case someone gets too tanked to drive home, and needs a place to sleep it off. The owner has just come back from a five week holiday in the US and his native Ireland, and after looking around said to just call him "Basil." On to a high light of the trip tomorrow, but it is a secret until then. Will get some more pictures on when I can find a warm room.

16 August 2010-Today didn't happen so I will not comment on it. Suffice it to say we started late in a gale, and ended wet! Parts of the middle were wonderful, and almost made up for both ends. But we are in Eden, and that is a good omen. An even better one is that we turn west tomorrow. Da Dum!

15 August 2010-This is the traveling companion you want: you pull over at a petrol station and say, "Well, here we are in Sydney traffic, but I missed the turn on the freeway I meant to take, and we are a bit lost. That big black cloud in front of us just starting throwing lightening bolts to the ground about a kilometer away, and I think we are going to get a bit wet because this petrol station doesn't have a cover." And your companion replies, "I don't mind - I am on holiday! Do you want to get something to eat?" Marvelous! We did eat after I got a bit damp moving the bikes. The storm passed in about 10 minutes while we were inside having a sausage roll, and a beef curry pie, and although there were rain squalls all around us all the rest of the day (200 Kms), none of them managed to catch us. Still windy, especially late in the afternoon. The country side south of New York, I mean, Sydney, was beautiful rolling green hills, stuffed with cattle and lovely country homes. We were glad to get to Nowra (NOW-ra) where Sue had attended kindergarten. Had a delicious meal of sliced roast beef, veggies, and gravy at the Pub down the street. And a Cherry Ripe for desert. Cherry Ripe - an Aussie candy bar with a middle of cherries, surrounded by shredded coconut, and covered with chocolate. Yummy!

13 August 2010-A very short day - only 229 km, but hey, it got us to a lovely beach, and for an old flight surgeon and VFR aviator how could I not aim for a place named "Hawks Nest"? Very windy again today. Sue was particularly impressed by the lovely ride through kms of fragrant yellow wattle blossoms on both side of the road, even if were blasted around a bit.

12 August 2010-A short day on the road, but a good one. Blue sky, winter light, lots of puffy white clouds, and a bit of wind. Really, a lot of wind. Did I mention the blustery right-front cross wind? The middle two-thirds of the trip was through tall, majestic forests, and they neutralized the wind, but the start and finish were through cleared farm land, and it was indeed evident. Lots more motorbikes on the road. Bus drivers in NSW are a bit aggressive - like "I will pass you on a short stretch of passing road and make you get over on the shoulder when I have to pull in before hitting the no-passing zone." Only once though. Perhaps I learned to be more passive myself. But it was a GOOD winter's day ride. Took five hours to go 311 kms though - lots of little towns 50 km/h speed limits, and lots of road work. On another subject, and on reflection, I am amazed that I got through Queensland alive. Every few kilometers there were signs telling me how very tired I was, and suggesting I pull over for a sleep before I crashed. I was afraid they would put me to sleep by auto-suggestion. Now in NSW I fear I will not make it to the Victoria border before being arrested. Every few kilometers there are large signs telling us that we are being monitored by speed cameras, with the absolute consequences of HUGE fines, and loss of license. Well, I can think of much worse places to be stranded....

11 August 2010-Either clean living pays off, or the Big Man upstairs is really watching over us. Through ALL of last night there was thunder, lightening, and pouring rain. The heavy rain continued past dawn as we slowly packed and kept glancing out the window. We decided at 10:00 that we had to go, and so did. At 10:01 the rain stopped, and the weather proceeded to improve with each passing hour. Hooray for blue skies! At around 2:00 PM we stopped for an ice cream, and Sue asked me, "When did we get to LA?" Luckily it was only Brisbane. And, hey, no tolls for motorbikes! But soon after entering New South Wales the land once again turned into this part of Australia's rolling, bucolic, and pastoral beauty. Ballina for the night.

10 August 2010-OK, back on the road for 3 days. Now about 1000 km south of Cairns, on the Gold Coast of Queensland, at Maryborough. The last three days have been through absolutely beautiful country. I think it could very easily substitute for God's coronation robe (if He ever decided to undergo that ritual). Past beautiful bays and beaches, extensive sugar cane and banana plantations, large rolling paddocks with isolated trees proudly jutting into blue skies, low mountains to west, and east, marvelous and varied forests, old/recent volcanoes with vegetation all the way to their pointed tops. It is all quite enchanting - there are regal, giant, white ghost gums who quietly shout their presence, lording over the lower paper-bark gums in the forests. All very lovely - even in today's rain - and that is suppose to clear tomorrow. We have to deal with traffic! Something very different from the first three weeks. We will continue south around the perimeter, through Brisbane and into New South Wales tomorrow. Still working on the route. Have to get over the holiday mode of Cairns....
Sue is a very happy riding partner, and a delightful companion, as always.

5 August 2010-Back in Cairns for a few days. We think. A bit of rain forecast, so we will see where we go, and when. On the way to pick up the MCs with new front tires.

HINT-Click on "August" just below the map link an you will download only the postings from this month.

Tuesday 3 August 2010-We flew back to Perth last Thursday evening for a surprise 90th birthday party for Reg, Sue's Dad. Had to keep quiet about it since Reg follows us on this blog. The party was a good one! Tomorrow we head back to Cairns, pick up the bikes with new front tires on them, and eventually head out again, continuing south, then east, then north to Uluru, south again, and eventually west across the Nullarbor Plain to the beginning. Looking forward to getting back on the road, but plan on enjoying the warmth of the tropics for a bit first.

Wednesday 28 July, 2010- We had a great ride from Richmond to Townsville on Sunday, remarkable only in how nice it was. The last bit was back into some lovely, hilly, twisties, and we didn’t mind the ten seconds of rain. It is good to be back in civilization….

We spent a rest day in Townsville museuming and walking on the Strand. It was overcast, and threatening to rain both days, very unusual for this time of year, but for old time Oregonians it was like being back there.

We rode to Cairns yesterday. A bit of traffic, but got to see where all the Oz sugar and bananas come from. Also, it was a perfect example of Blane’s Rule For Life #11 – “It is better to put on rain gear before it starts raining rather then after it has stopped raining.” Let’s just say there was opposition in the ranks to the suggestion that we don it, and five minutes later it was much too late to worry about it. Tropical rainstorms are remarkable events….

Today we took a wonderful old train up to Kuramaba in the Atherton Tablelands. Very nice day.

Friday 23 July-Good ride, into Queensland (QSL). The last 100 km of the Northern Territory was a beautiful high plateau grassland, stocked with cattle. The first 100 km of QSL was a dead kangaroo slalom course. We were glad to get to Mt. Isa well before dusk. On further east tomorrow, arriving at the Pacific coast (the east coast) on Sunday – unless we head north for a day or two first.

July 22- Thursday: an “interesting day.” A surgeon told me one day, “You know, Blane, then last thing you want to be is an interesting case.” The day started off clear, chilly, and a bit blustery. We had a great ride going for about 310 kms, when we stopped to de-layer. As we started off I thought Sue was having a bad problem, so stopped and jumped off my bike. I neglected to realize that I was on a sloping shoulder, and as I slammed the kick stand down, it hit pavement and retracted. The fully loaded bike, of course, fell over, but politely didn’t hit me. So aside from a broken left front turn signal bulb, the bike subsequently decided to repay me for ignoring it by refusing to start. It seems a clutch handle relay had been popped off. I, thinking the problem was a kill switch broken in the “off” position, or a broken starter switch, or a damaged kick stand relay, attacked those issues – and it still wouldn’t start. Sue went off to find a rescuer at the road house 98 kms back, and I kept fiddling. If you look at the map you see we were WAY out there. After about 3 hours Colin and Lynn, from Victoria, stopped in their caravan, and asked what was the problem. Colin said, “I have bikes. Would you mind if I had a look?” Within five minutes he found the disconnected relay plug stuffed back where I had been looking without seeing it under the clutch handle. Five minutes, I might add, of happy, and friendly, and relaxing banter. To prove that was the problem, he asked if I had a paperclip, put each end of the paperclip into each of the relay openings, and told me to press the starter. WONDEROUS motorcycle noise was heard! Then, after diligent searching he found where the plug attached under the clutch handle, reattached it, and I was mobile again! Then they drove off to find Sue, soon found her, but the truck driver didn’t have his CB radio on, so they couldn’t flag her down. Anyhow, by now it was near the ‘roo dodging time of the afternoon, Sue and I, and then by now superfluous rescue truck returned to Barkley Homestead Roadhouse, where we thanked the Lord that there are wonderfully friendly, and mechanically adept people in this country who will stop and help others. Happily we met up with them at the roadhouse, and had the chance to develop our friendship more.

Wednesday 21 July-At Tennant Creek, with great online access, so can post a few pictures of the Katherine Gorge walk, rellies in Darwin, and subsequent travels south.
Daly Waters barbeque lived up to expectations. We both agreed that crackers, cheese, and soup will be fine for tonight!
Cooler today, 59F when we started, 71F when we stopped. Lovely bush country to ride through today. It went from many, high, thin trees, very closely spaced, to a few high trees interspersed with essentially high bushes and spinifix, to more open savannah. Petrol stops available every 100 kms or so. Tomorrow, as we turn due east, they are every 200 Kms or so. Strong crosswind today, which will be a headwind tomorrow. Thank goodness for large (22L) petrol tanks. Speaking of fuel it was $7.00 a gallon today. Saw lots more motorcycles today, 12, which is 3 times the total we had seen previously.

20 July, Tuesday. We are in Daly Waters, NT, and it is quite a place. Unfortunately the broadband strength is too weak for me to post any pictures. Will keep trying, as have quite a backlog, including a few from Katherine Gorge, Darwin, and Mataranka Homestead, and this place which has a special crossing for chooks (chickens).
Tonight we signed up for a "barbie" - 1/2 beef and 1/2 barramunda. Barramunda is a fish caught up here that everyone raves about. I thought the raving was more or less just hype, until I took my first bite. Best fish I ever ate. Can't hardly get enough!
The ride today was short, to give the crew a chance to get ready for the upcoming slog - one more day south to Tennant Creek, and then three days heading to the Pacific coast at Townsville. We decided to post-pone the trip to Uluru (Ayer's Rock) and pick it up from the southern approach when we head back west on the bottom of the continent. We have been spoiled by the beautiful, warm weather, and gorgeous blue skies. 75-80 while on the road today - 32-40 at Uluru. That will also give us a chance to visit Coober Pedy, in the state of South Australia, the underground city in the central opal mining region. I have always looked for an excuse to do so....

Online issues hopefully settled

If you ever want to renew your faith in the goodness and kindness of human nature, take a long road trip, preferably on a motorcycle, through Australia. As we were heading to Katherine, about an hour and a half out of Fitzroy Crossing (FC), we stopped to have some water at a rest area that allows camping. As we dismounted a gentleman walked out of his camper, and very politely told us that his wife had the kettle on, and asked if we would like a cup of tea or coffee. We readily assented, and for the next hour had the great pleasure of making new friends, not to mention good coffee, and delicious chocolate cookies. Peter and Trisha are from Brisbane, (on the east coast) and have been on the road for 10 weeks. They plan to arrive in Perth in another 10 weeks, and then head home across the Nullarbor. Peter was in the RAN (Royal Australian Navy) so we had stories to share. He also told me about a good 3G broadband network that reportedly covers most of Australia. The answer to internet availability! Don't know why I didn't know about this before.
Anyhow, after an absolutely delightful hour of chatting, and exchanging contact information we headed on to Katherine, in search of the "Telstra Turbo 3G Pre-paid" software and USB hub. We finally found it in Darwin 4 days later. We reportedly got the last unit between Darwin and Alice Springs! Very popular, it seems. So have since been waiting for the company to get me online after registering. They are suppose to give me 1 GB free, and I am not to purchase any more time/bytes till that appears in my account. The account balance is still zero, but this is apparently still working!
We arrived in Darwin Thursday the 15th, and have been exceptionally well looked after by Sue's cousin Gaye, and her daughter Kim. It has been so much fun we have decided to stay another day, and not leave till Monday. We have also gotten to know Kim's partner Brian, an avid off-road motorcycle racer, and his parents Elma and Murray, and Murray's brother Snowy, are visiting from New South Wales. Murray and his brother are retired butchers, and have many very funny tales about the people in his small farming community. Gaye put on a barbeque for them, and we were fortunate to be here to share it.
Had the bikes serviced while we were here, with new rear tires, oil and oil filter change. We had intended to have ALL four tires changed, and had called 3 weeks ago to get it setup. Unfortunately, they neglected to see if they actually did have the tires in stock after assuring me that they did - and they did not. Oh well - fortunately we still have 3mm tread depth on both front tires, so we should be able to get to Cairns on the old ones without a problem.
Darwin is a large and bustling city. Commerce is booming. Tourism is the main industry, and they must be doing very well, judging from the size and character of the houses.
We had a scrumptious sea-food buffet last night at a local restaurant. Topped off with plum pudding, and chocolate ckae. Life is indeed good!
While we were eating our delicious meal, Murray and Snowy went to the "footie" game. Their team, the Melbourne Bulldogs were playing a game here, and won to their delight. Afterward they went to the races. I asked Snowy how the races were. He replied, "I went to the races, and went home and slept like a baby - I laid awake for an hour, then I cried for an hour!"
I will get some new pictures up after I get back from Mass, but now it is out the door to get there...

Monday, 12 July: We wanted to go north to warm up, so we went north - and it warmed up! 95 F for the last 4 hours on the road today. We are in The Kimberly - more of a savanna grassland than the Pilbara, with taller, but still thin trees spaced more widely apart. To the west of us are beautiful deep gorges, behind us (we are in Kununurra - pronounced can-na-NAIR-a)are a collection of amazing rocks at the Bungle Bungles. Unfortunately, most spectacular things are 20 to 80 km off the bitumen. The best way to really visit this spectacular west coast is with a 4-wheel drive pulling a caravan (trailer), so you can head out into the boonies, and explore to your hearts content. Only problem is that it might take years...
Last night at Fitzroy Crossing we had dinner with another Ray, this one a retired Aussie Navy man, his wife Jo, and son Tom who works at the Crossing Inn - the oldest pub in WA, by the way. Wonderful people. Besides trading innumerable sea stories, we solved all the worlds problems. Ray was up to see us off this morning. Many good people out on the road, most of whom seem to be delighted to spend hours entertaining total strangers. (They think I talk funny)
We were stopped on the road today for about 1/4 hour as stockmen were mustering a very large herd of cattle from one place to another. It was a HUGE herd, running four abreast, over 4 km long, sometimes on both sides of the Great Northern Highway. To control the herd they had two men on horseback in the bush, two helicopters in the air, and a man in a ute (pickup truck) on the road. Sorry I don't have pictures of the herd, but there was really no place to safely pull off the road, and we were in a convoy of vehicles.
Kununurra is situated on the Ord River Project, a water control system with a large dam, and a massive lake behind it. It seems to be a very prosperous town, and it is nice to be back where there is water - not too much available where we were for the last 2 days.
On to Katherine tomorrow, then a day exploring Katherine Gorge before arriving to vist Sue's cousin Gaye in Darwin.

11 July - Sunday: Having computer problems so this will be short. In Broome, where we spent our Honeymoon 21 wonderful years ago. Heading to Fitzroy Crossing today. Dodging the rain so far. Met Ray at a pullover 80 kms south yesterday. He is from Esperance, a couple of thousand miles south (where the first picture was taken.) He knows Sue's sister Bev. He also invited us into his caravan for lunch, being prepared by Elsie, his wife. We had just eaten, so had to decline. But that is ths kind of people you met on the road here. Have a "slippery and wet" detour after about 90 kms today, so we are delaying starting a bit to let the road hopefully dry out. After arriving had drimks with friends Terry and Jenny, Jenny's mother, and two of there good friends. A very nice way to spend an evening.

First chance to be at a computer, and at the Karratha Library.
We left 5 July, 13C, bright and sunny, and eventually got on the Brand Highway at Muchea, heading North. Had a lovely ride. although we never really warmed up too much. Rains have been few in WA (Western Australia), but still enough for the the countryside to be more green than brown. Near Geraldton the winter wheat crops are sprouting, and there were an abundance of cattle, sheep and a few goat spreads. Beautiful country.
Beyond Carnarvon on the 6th there were literally hundreds of dead kangaroos alongside the road. Interesting. Feasting on them were crows, and big wedge-tailed eagles. Huge! Slow to rise! Duck! Next time I must remember to pass them on their back side.
Soon into the WA dry country, as the pictures show. It is a combination of West Texas, eastern Oregon, northern Nevada, and southern Arizona without the cacti. And goes on and on, for days. And immensely beautiful. I love deserts, and was near pure joy most of the day. I can understand why Jesus went into the desert to pray, and the first monks went into the desert to meditate. Life is quite simplified -the only priorities are shelter, water, food (and in our case fuel, and dodging road trains) and they are so pressing that life's other distractions disappear.
Further north ocassional large, smooth rocks poke up, then a few low plateaus in the distance, and then nearer long, low, rounded hills slither into view. Gorgeous! We are both anything but bored!
Yesterday, the 7th, we arrived in the Pilbara mining area. Iron is king, followed by natural gas as queen. She is brought in from off-shore, liquified in a massive facility, and shipped out in 400 yard long ships. China, Japan, and India are buying.
Australia is booming. 5% unemployment. It is school winter holiday time for 2 weeks, and everyone we meet on the road is friendly and happy. Can't blame them. But they still think I talk funny.
We took a rest day today, and it rained, so fortune still smiles on us, as it has for 25 years.

PS: Double-click on the pictures to enlarge them.

We went on a shakedown ride yesterday through the east Perth Hills with friends Jan and Penny, and family Bruce and Di. It was a very good ride. The bike-to-bike com was inoperative, but we got it working today. Looking forward to tomorrow, and having fun figuring out this blog!

Departure date is set for 5 July.