31 August 2010-Today was another especially excellent day on the road - good highway, 12-22C, blue sky, wind tolerable. We went east for 250 km back to the Stuart Highway at Erldunda were we petroled up, ate breakfast, and headed south. We had debated about stopping at Kulgera, the last possible stop in the Northern Territory, because it was only 74 km down the road, but decided to do so because there really was no other roadhouse for the next 180 km after, until we were to stop for the night. While at Kulger we debated the benefits of ice cream but decided it was too close to breakfast, so just took off a layer, remounted, and prepared to take off. As Sue backed out, her way was blocked by a caravan, and a woman jumped out, ran up to her, and shouted, "Sue!" It was Lyn Parish, and the blocking driver was her husband Colin! They are the ones who fixed the electrical problem with my bike 5 weeks ago on the way to Queensland. We had all been trying to arrange a meeting for the last three weeks, via e-mail and telephone, and even our quick trip to Alice Springs last Saturday, but for some reason or the other one of the couples couldn't make it to a prearranged spot. Needless to say we were overjoyed to see them again. We all had a grand gab fest at the roadhouse. They introduced us to Colin's brother Roger, and his wife Dale. It turns out that we were all scheduled to spend the night at Marla, South Australia. Hurrah! So we got together here for dinner, where Colin barbied delicious steak, lamb chops, and snaggers (sausages), and the ladies made scrumptious, tasty salads, and dessert was large chunks of my favorite Ozzie candy - Violet Crumbles - with good coffee. Great fun telling stories and laughing frequently and uproariously went on for hours until our guilty consciences made us stop so the two girls in sleeping bags camped just behind us could get some sleep. See what I mean? It has been a fantastic trip. How else could we have met, and then re-met these wonderfully nice people?

30 August 2010-We spent all day at Uluru - sunrise pictures, walked on a couple of the walks with a Natalie, very good story telling tour guide, had an ice cream, back to the rock for sunset pictures. Now only have to go through the 424 photos and see if any of them are any good. On the road south tomorrow, for three days, then right turn to Perth.

29 August 2010-Today was a very nice day – good road, clear sky, not much wind, 18-20 C, and we ended up at Yulara - Ayers Rock Resort. It has only taken us 24 years to make it here (too long a story to relate) but suffice it to say we are both delighted that we arrived together. And it was definitely worth the effort. The Rock is a beaut. An amazing beaut. We also took a 100 km ride in the park west to the Olgas, a massive rock formation, and marveled even more. Tomorrow it is up at 0:dark30 to get sunrise pictures of “The Rock.” So goodnight.

28 August 2010- My brother emailed me today to tell me that Mother had died in her sleep last evening. Emma Christina Wiedower Howell Hayes (Emma Jo, Gram) was 96. She was born in Haiteville, Arkansas in 1914 to John and Minny Wiedower. Her grandfather, Herman Wiedower, had emigrated from Germany to the Midwest USA when he was six, and eventually moved to Arkansas where he farmed. Her father, John, is still remembered as a successful farmer, but mostly as a kind and generous and god-fearing man. She was the eldest of 10 children, two of whom died in infancy. When she was 14 her family moved to Vinita, Oklahoma, 200 miles away, and she drove her grandfather the entire way in a model A Ford. In those days the roads were dirt, and the highways only two strips on concrete side by side, each just wide enough for a car wheel. She attended school at Sacred Heart Academy in Vinita, Oklahoma, riding her horse the six miles in to school every day, except for the winter months when she boarded over. She was offered a basketball scholarship to Dallas University, but chose to go to work in Little Rock, Arkansas. After three years she married Harold Albert Howell, of Vinita in the late 30’s. I, first, and then my brother, Bill, came along over a four year period during World War II. Mother was the proverbial joiner/organizer whether it be Cub Scouts, PTA, Women of the Moose, or some money collecting charity. The common saying of my school friends, even through high school was, “I just love your mother.” She loved a party, and could dance your legs off. She was a fastidious dresser, who always prided herself on looking as if she had just stepped out of the pages of a fashion magazine. She encouraged sports, friendship, studies, and for years was a frequent, if not daily attendee at daily Catholic mass. She worked as a book-keeper to help me pay for medical school, and Bill for law school. She loved her 5 grandchildren and 3 great-grandchildren. Although her marriage to Harold ended in 1968 she never ceased to love him. She did marry Jose Hayes years later, but wound up leaving him because, “He didn’t know how to treat me with respect.” She moved to The Dalles, Oregon to be near Bill and I, and was independent and happy there for many years. Over the past five years she suffered a gradual deterioration in her mental stability as Alzheimers attacked her with a vengeance. She learned to be happy with what she could do, and remember, and resolved to just not worry about the rest. The last year has seen her become more and more confused, sad, and upset, especially over the past three months in which she could not recognize family members, and always looked very unhappy. She died in her sleep last evening. Bill said that when he saw her after her death she looked absolutely peaceful. She has gone to meet her God, and I am sure he welcomed her with open and loving arms, saying, “Well done, good and faithful servant.” As she herself said, “I tried to do the best I knew how.” And I am sure that is just what He was looking for. Love you, Mother. Rest happy in your new home.

27 August 2010-Okay, this will cover two days. By the time I got yesterday sorted out it was late, and since I had been sitting outside for a good broadband connection, I was too cold to work. Don’t you feel sorry for me…
Yesterday, 26 August, we left Port Augusta after Sue was almost 100% recovered from her viral sinusitis. It was a bit chilly, 12 C (53 F) and rainy off and on. The road was a good one. My partner asked, “Why are we going so slow?” “We Are at our usual 100 km/hr (63 mph), I replied. “Well speed it up!” she said. “This is a good road, and it is just going straight.” So it was up to the speed limit of 110 km/h (69 mph). We made good time, as there is only the road, and the only thing you have to stop for is petrol – and sheep, and cows, and wedge-tail eagles, and emus – haven’t seen any camels yet, although there are estimates of 30,000 of them roaming around. We rode through the Stoney Desert, one of the vast, and continuous series of deserts thru the north and west of South Australia. It is magnificent! Vast, rolling, arid plains alternate with low scrub brush, and occasional pockets of dense small trees. And every now and then you come across a huge dry lake bed. What is most unusual now is that many of these lakes now have water in them, a very rare sight to see. We couldn’t spend much time appreciating the hydrology, as the wind was atrocious! And amazing. When it was just a front left quartering wind it was just battering us around. But our course altered and we were then facing it head on. What a party. When we went through a gully it would press us down onto the seats. When we came out, it would literally lift the helmets up on our heads, and us a bit off the seats. Never enough to worry one, but definitely attention getting.
We made it to Coober Pedy, after 537 kms (336 miles). There is an algebraic equations that goes Coober Pedy/opals=shopping. So what is a girl to do? We went shopping. Even before showering!
While at dinner – lamb gyros and lemonade – we overheard many people talking about the BIG truck gathering in Alice Springs this weekend, and how it was absolutely impossible to get a motel room. I thought, rather smugly, “How glad I am that I got online and got one a couple of days ago, on-line, through hotels.com.” Then the talk ran to how all the motels/hotels/caravan parks in Alice had been booked up for five months! Not so smug now I decided to call the motel to confirm our reservation. And they had never heard of me, had no record of my reservation, never booked through hotels.com, and had indeed been booked up for this weekend since five months ago, as had every motel in the town! Not good!!!
Our plan had been to ride to Alice and visit with Colin and Lyn, the two who came to our rescue in mid-July when I had the electrical problem with my MC. It would have been a 693 km (433 miles) ride. A long ride, but doable, for as I mentioned the road is good, there is very little to slow you down, and what you set the speedo on is what you get for an average velocity. But then to arrive after all day in the saddle, and to find there was no room in the inn – indeed no room in any inn would not have been good. Sue is absolutely the nicest person I have ever know. But by calling I am sure I averted a major geologic implosion in the Red Center of Australia.
So we were lucky enough to get a room at Erldunda, 200 kms south of Alice, at the turnoff to Uluru, where we are headed next. It made for a much shorter ride today, and perhaps we can get into Alice and back tomorrow, and still see our friends. We are about out of chain lube, so must get some soon, and the MC shop there is open until 12:30. Always wanted to go to Alice….
Today, 27 August started of auspiciously. Came out of the underground motel room, looked at the sky, and announced to Sue, “Well, it is overcast, but I don’t think we will need the rain suits.” Turned back around, and noted that it was raining. And it did so, off and on, all day. Then when we rode out I turned right out of the parking lot to get to the Stuart Highway. After about five blocks the street ended in the desert, so I made a U-turn to go the correct way. But after that it was a glorious day of riding. No wind! And even a bit of sun! We were toasty warm, and completely dry, and had good chats with Aussies when we stopped for breakfast, and then for ice cream. I have long noted that Sue never seemed to meet a stranger. Now I see it is a national characteristic.
The desert continued beside us, thrilling in its stark majesty. On..and on…and on….and on….. I do fell blessed to have been here. Especially with my best mate. It is always good to see the broad smile on her face every time she pulls her helmet off.

25 August 2010-For the past three days we have essentially been holed up at Port Augusta waiting for Sweet Sue to recover from a bad cold/sinusitis. She reports that she is well, and looks as if she is. So it is back on the road tomorrow, to Coober Pedy, then a couple of days at Alice Springs, and two more at Uluru (Ayers Rock) before heading back here to take the final right turn across the Nullarbor Plain to Perth. Still windy, and spitting rain throughout the day, but a bit warmer. We will take the warmth as it comes, even a bit at a time. Fruit trees are budding, and the occasional batch of wild flowers show themselves beside the road. Spring can't be far behind.

20 August 2010-Up today to a bright, sunny, windless day with a temperature of 4.3C (40F) and hit the road well-rugged up. 438 Kms to Adelaide, mostly through fine conditions, but interspersed with occasional short bursts of rain, including one little 45-50 second microburst with horizontal rain, hail, and wind blasts sufficient to reposition the tank bag to the side of the motorbike...twice. My companion thought it all hilarious - the rugging up, the hot tea every two hours, and the Adelaide traffic, not to mention the periodic ending of the South Australia drought. Really. I found it challenging - she found it funny! We are staying with Sue's Auntie Joy, who is a lovely and delightful lady, and tomorrow will catch up with Auntie Winn, and with cousins Sue hasn't seen for decades. We will be here three days, and I doubt if there will be much to report on. Clothes washing will probably not find much fascination for many, so will turn the microphone off till Monday.

18 August 2010-Today was the best day of the trip. The bikes were ready at 9:00 with new oil and sparkplugs, so after a good breakfast of poached eggs, bacon, and toast (Australian bacon is a combination of what Yanks call Canadian bacon, and American bacon, and seemingly is about 95 fat free – and delicious!) we saddled up and headed out. It was 10 C (50 F) but we were rugged up and warm. We went about 100 Km’s west on the Princes Highway toward Melbourne, then headed north in rain 65 Km’s through beautiful old growth forest of large and tall trees to the town of Healesville. We dropped off our gear there and went a few Km’s west to Tarrawarra Abbey, a Cistercian (Trappist) Monastery. I volunteer at the Trappist monastery outside Lafayette, Oregon, and had been deputized by the Abbot Peter and monks there to relay their greetings to Tarrawarra if we were able to visit. We did, and what a wonderful time we had! We were warmly and generously greeted by two very kind and most fascinating Australian men, Abbot David, and the Guestmaster, Fr. Bernard. First they offered us tea, coffee, and biscuits, and we then spent the next several hours in a discussion of everything Australian, as it related to the world, the Church, history, politics, suggested readings, and mutual friends, interrupted quite frequently by gales of laughter that must have shaken the walls. The Rule of St. Benedict, which the Cistercians follow, indicates that they are to treat all visitors as if the visitor was Christ Himself. I can assure you, He would not have been better received, and treated more royally. Sue was delighted to have spent the afternoon talking with two AUSTRALIAN men. As we left Abbot David admonished me to give him high Marks to Abbot Peter – I don’t believe higher marks would have been possible! Although I couldn’t change Abbot David’s mind about George W., I think I convinced him to visit Oregon if he has the chance. What a wonderful day! The only disappointment was that we were not able to stay at the Abbey for Vespers and an evening Mass since they started at dusk, and that is the time kangaroos are noted to be up and hopping onto the roads. Hopefully, next time….

17 August 2010-A glorious day of good riding - cold, but good - 8.3C (47F) to start 15C (59F) to stop. We are heading west! Actually, we have already completed the coastal circumnavigation. In 2007 we rode the southern coast across the continent to Eden, NSW, where we spent the night last evening, as well as circling around Tasmania. So we are done! The only problem is that we are still a few thousand Kms from home, and we haven't quite made it Uluru (Ayers Rock) yet. The bikes were serviced this afternoon in the small town of Hayville, which is essentially any-where-but-where-Melbourne-traffic-is. We are staying at the Hayville Commercial Hotel/Faulty Towers. It is the only hotel/pub/restaurant in town - nice big room, no heat, one light bulb hanging from the middle of the ceiling, one power point, toilet and shower down the hall. Had to move from the first room because after we got the blinds to roll up we discovered the window had a big hole in it. But the apple crumble was to die for. All the country pubs have to have basic rooms to rent in case someone gets too tanked to drive home, and needs a place to sleep it off. The owner has just come back from a five week holiday in the US and his native Ireland, and after looking around said to just call him "Basil." On to a high light of the trip tomorrow, but it is a secret until then. Will get some more pictures on when I can find a warm room.

16 August 2010-Today didn't happen so I will not comment on it. Suffice it to say we started late in a gale, and ended wet! Parts of the middle were wonderful, and almost made up for both ends. But we are in Eden, and that is a good omen. An even better one is that we turn west tomorrow. Da Dum!

15 August 2010-This is the traveling companion you want: you pull over at a petrol station and say, "Well, here we are in Sydney traffic, but I missed the turn on the freeway I meant to take, and we are a bit lost. That big black cloud in front of us just starting throwing lightening bolts to the ground about a kilometer away, and I think we are going to get a bit wet because this petrol station doesn't have a cover." And your companion replies, "I don't mind - I am on holiday! Do you want to get something to eat?" Marvelous! We did eat after I got a bit damp moving the bikes. The storm passed in about 10 minutes while we were inside having a sausage roll, and a beef curry pie, and although there were rain squalls all around us all the rest of the day (200 Kms), none of them managed to catch us. Still windy, especially late in the afternoon. The country side south of New York, I mean, Sydney, was beautiful rolling green hills, stuffed with cattle and lovely country homes. We were glad to get to Nowra (NOW-ra) where Sue had attended kindergarten. Had a delicious meal of sliced roast beef, veggies, and gravy at the Pub down the street. And a Cherry Ripe for desert. Cherry Ripe - an Aussie candy bar with a middle of cherries, surrounded by shredded coconut, and covered with chocolate. Yummy!

13 August 2010-A very short day - only 229 km, but hey, it got us to a lovely beach, and for an old flight surgeon and VFR aviator how could I not aim for a place named "Hawks Nest"? Very windy again today. Sue was particularly impressed by the lovely ride through kms of fragrant yellow wattle blossoms on both side of the road, even if were blasted around a bit.

12 August 2010-A short day on the road, but a good one. Blue sky, winter light, lots of puffy white clouds, and a bit of wind. Really, a lot of wind. Did I mention the blustery right-front cross wind? The middle two-thirds of the trip was through tall, majestic forests, and they neutralized the wind, but the start and finish were through cleared farm land, and it was indeed evident. Lots more motorbikes on the road. Bus drivers in NSW are a bit aggressive - like "I will pass you on a short stretch of passing road and make you get over on the shoulder when I have to pull in before hitting the no-passing zone." Only once though. Perhaps I learned to be more passive myself. But it was a GOOD winter's day ride. Took five hours to go 311 kms though - lots of little towns 50 km/h speed limits, and lots of road work. On another subject, and on reflection, I am amazed that I got through Queensland alive. Every few kilometers there were signs telling me how very tired I was, and suggesting I pull over for a sleep before I crashed. I was afraid they would put me to sleep by auto-suggestion. Now in NSW I fear I will not make it to the Victoria border before being arrested. Every few kilometers there are large signs telling us that we are being monitored by speed cameras, with the absolute consequences of HUGE fines, and loss of license. Well, I can think of much worse places to be stranded....

11 August 2010-Either clean living pays off, or the Big Man upstairs is really watching over us. Through ALL of last night there was thunder, lightening, and pouring rain. The heavy rain continued past dawn as we slowly packed and kept glancing out the window. We decided at 10:00 that we had to go, and so did. At 10:01 the rain stopped, and the weather proceeded to improve with each passing hour. Hooray for blue skies! At around 2:00 PM we stopped for an ice cream, and Sue asked me, "When did we get to LA?" Luckily it was only Brisbane. And, hey, no tolls for motorbikes! But soon after entering New South Wales the land once again turned into this part of Australia's rolling, bucolic, and pastoral beauty. Ballina for the night.

10 August 2010-OK, back on the road for 3 days. Now about 1000 km south of Cairns, on the Gold Coast of Queensland, at Maryborough. The last three days have been through absolutely beautiful country. I think it could very easily substitute for God's coronation robe (if He ever decided to undergo that ritual). Past beautiful bays and beaches, extensive sugar cane and banana plantations, large rolling paddocks with isolated trees proudly jutting into blue skies, low mountains to west, and east, marvelous and varied forests, old/recent volcanoes with vegetation all the way to their pointed tops. It is all quite enchanting - there are regal, giant, white ghost gums who quietly shout their presence, lording over the lower paper-bark gums in the forests. All very lovely - even in today's rain - and that is suppose to clear tomorrow. We have to deal with traffic! Something very different from the first three weeks. We will continue south around the perimeter, through Brisbane and into New South Wales tomorrow. Still working on the route. Have to get over the holiday mode of Cairns....
Sue is a very happy riding partner, and a delightful companion, as always.

5 August 2010-Back in Cairns for a few days. We think. A bit of rain forecast, so we will see where we go, and when. On the way to pick up the MCs with new front tires.

HINT-Click on "August" just below the map link an you will download only the postings from this month.

Tuesday 3 August 2010-We flew back to Perth last Thursday evening for a surprise 90th birthday party for Reg, Sue's Dad. Had to keep quiet about it since Reg follows us on this blog. The party was a good one! Tomorrow we head back to Cairns, pick up the bikes with new front tires on them, and eventually head out again, continuing south, then east, then north to Uluru, south again, and eventually west across the Nullarbor Plain to the beginning. Looking forward to getting back on the road, but plan on enjoying the warmth of the tropics for a bit first.